Most breakdowns are preventable. A little and often — pressure, chain lube, brake checks, plus a 60-second pre-ride M-check — keeps almost everything working.
Tyre pressure
Soft tyres cause punctures, sluggish riding and rim damage. Check pressure weekly — tyres lose air naturally even without a puncture.
- The correct range is printed on the tyre sidewall (PSI or bar).
- Use a pump with a gauge; the thumb-squeeze test is unreliable.
- Heavier riders use the higher end; for comfort or gravel, the lower end. Try the pressure calculator.
Chain: clean and lubricate
- Wipe the chain With a rag while backpedalling, to remove grit.
- Apply one drop of bike lube per roller Backpedalling slowly.
- Wait a few minutes, then wipe off the excess Lube on the outside of the chain only attracts dirt.
"Wet" lube for rainy climates (lasts longer, attracts dirt), "dry" for dry climates (cleaner, apply more often). Don't use engine oil or thin spray lubricants.
The pre-ride M-check
A 60-second check tracing an M over the bike: front wheel, up to the bars, down to the pedals, up to the saddle, back to the rear wheel.
| Point | Check |
|---|---|
| Front wheel | Axle tight, tyre inflated and undamaged, spins freely, brake works |
| Bars & headset | Bars tight, no play when rocking the bike with the front brake on |
| Pedals & cranks | Cranks tight with no wobble, chain lubricated |
| Saddle & seatpost | Saddle tight and level, seatpost clamped |
| Rear wheel | Axle tight, tyre inflated, brake works, gears shift cleanly |
When to see a shop
- Anything involving the headset, bottom bracket, or wheel truing.
- A bent derailleur hanger (see Skipping gears).
- Hydraulic disc brakes that feel spongy.
- Any crack in the frame or fork — stop riding until inspected.
If a repair involves the brakes or steering and you're not 100% sure, have it checked before riding. Everything else — have a go. Bikes are simple machines and mistakes are rarely expensive.